What do Albarino, Gruner Veltliner, Moschofilero, Savatiano, Torrontes, and Viognier have in common? They are the new breed of aromatic grape varieties whose time has come. Aromatic is a nebulous term for wines that have intense aromas: fruits, herbs, or other odors directly from either the grape (or other fruits) or developed by the winemaking process. These grape varieties have exceptional, pronounced fruity or floral aromas.

At a recent Rias Baixas (ree-ahs buy-shuss) Albarino wine seminar, a panel of winemakers from Spain spoke in length about the region and its crown jewel, the Albarino (al-ba-ree-nyo) grape variety. A comprehensive tasting of more than two dozen examples followed this. Albarino (known as Alvarinho in neighboring Portugal) is a small, thick-skinned white grape variety grown primarily in the northwest region of Galicia, in Rias-Baixas, Spain, although some is also grown in Australia, New Zealand, California, Oregon, and Virginia. Albarino wines are noted for their brisk, sometimes piercing acidity, mineral qualities and heaps of fruit; green apple, apricot, citrus, grapefruit, honeysuckle, mango, melon, pear, peaches, sweet chamomile, and green tea.

According to the winemakers panel, Albarino wines do not undergo malolactic fermentation every year, and when ML is induced, it generally averages 20 to 30 percent. Relative to barrel-fermentation or oak aging, the panel was generally not in favor of oak treatment; although there are a few wineries that practice this. When asked about extended bottle age, the feelings were almost unanimous that their goal is to sell fresh wines meant for consumption within two to three years after the vintage. However, due to the wines natural acidity, five to six years of aging is possible.

Rias Baixas is a DO (1988) grape-growing district located within the northwest area of Galicia comprised of five subdistricts: O Rosal and Val do Salnes on Galicias rainy Atlantic coast and Condado do Tea inland on the north bank of the Mino River. Ribeira do Ulla is located inland, southeast of Santiago de Compostela, and east of Padron. Soutomaior occupies the smallest of the subzones and is nestled at the head of the Ria de Vigo. Rias Baixas, which translated means the lower Rias in Gallego, a language that is a mix of Spanish and Portuguese.

While 12 grape varieties are permitted in the DO, the white Albarino grape represents 90 percent of all plantings. Other important permitted grapes include Treixadura, traditionally blended with Albarino; and Loureiro, a high-quality local variety. Caino Blanco, Torrontes and Godello are also planted to a lesser extent throughout the region.

Albarinos origins are unknown. One theory, romantic but untrue, is that Albarino is derived from Riesling, brought by German pilgrims on the path to Santiago de Compostela, a holy city in Galicia. Another theory is that the Cistercian monks from Burgundy, who established vineyards wherever they built their churches, introduced it in the twelfth or thirteenth century.
Rias Baixas is noted for its white wines made from the Albarino grape. Wines labeled Albarino must use 100 percent Albarino grapes. Wines simply labeled Rias Baixas are made with the mandated 70 percent Albarino, blended with Treixadura, Loureiro, or Caino Blanco grapes.

Did You Know That…

• DO Rias Baixas is the only exclusively white wine DO in Spain.

• The Rias Baixas region encompasses 8,650 vineyard acres, with more than 6,500 growers and 20,000 plots of land under vine. As a result, the average vineyard is less than half an acre.

• More than half of the winemakers in Rias Baixas are women.

Some stand-out examples of Albarino wines I tasted (no particular order) during the seminar are: 2008 Terras Gauda O Rosal (blend Albarino, Loureiro, and Canino Blanc); 2008 Abadia de San Campio Albarino; 2007 Serra da Estrela Albarino; 2008 Santiago Ruiz Albarino; 2008 Pazo Senorans Albarino.

The United States is now the number one export market for Albarino wines from Rias Baixas.